The 1995 J, a Magnum, cost $90 then, has 12% alcohol and scored 17 points on the Dionysian scale of a possible 20.
Made in the traditional method in Healdsburg, California, it was among the last vintage bottles they made. Now, they are all non-vintage.
It was creamy more than toasty, it had tiny bubbles and at 26 years, it held nicely.
The color had deepened , and it held its bubbles for a shorter time than a new bottle might have, but the additional complexity made it worth the wait. Why a Magnum? In today’s world, you can never have too much sparkling wine. In Vino Veritas.