The 1999 Chablis 1er Cru “Vaillons” scored 19 points on the 20-point Dionysian scale. It cost about $24 then and  had a perfect 13% alcohol.

It had green apple aromas mixed with wet-stone. It was rounder than usual, because of the 18 years in bottle, and it showed just how beautiful the Chardonnay grape can be when made with little or no oak and with sensible alcohol levels.

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I’ve kept some Chablis for much longer; the best was drunk with Dionysian Gary Pavlis who steamed Little Neck clams to pair with a 20-year-old example.

This Chablis was made by Lamblin & Fils at Maligny-les-Chablis in France and proved to me that I have to age much more Premier Cru Chablis. In Vino Veritas.