The 2001 Gran Baroja Rioja Gran Reserva, at 14% alcohol, costing nearly $24, scored 15+ points on the 20-point Dionysian scale.
It was still deep red at 14 years old, and it needed time for the black cherry and tobacco to develop. It was a bit over-oaked and was drying out sooner than it should, but it was balanced. This wine was one of only 1,000 cases made from the warm 2001 vintage as their Gran Reserva which means an extra year in the barrel than the fruitier Reservas.
The Spanish think Americans only want French oak in their reds and they can over-do it. The Tempranillo grape of Rioja marries best, I believe, with American oak.
A simple venison stew with home-grown peas and carrots helped bring some fruit out of the wine. It went best with the freshly baked roll.
Most Rioja reds can age 10 to 20 years, so put a few away. Research their better vintages and look for smaller producers. In vino veritas.
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