With 16.5% alcohol, and heat over the fruits, the 2004 Spelletich Cellars Zinfandel from Alriso Vineyard in Amador County, California. cost near $20.

The Amador area is known for its old vines and concentrated wines, but the excessive alcohol, nearly a fortified Port, scored just 13 points on the Dionysian scale. It could not be paired with any subtle dish. It was ink black, had a nose of over-ripe blackberry and alcohol fumes, and it finished short.

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It’s nicely oaked with both American and French wood, but even though the back label says to enjoy with food, there is nothing to pair with it that a beer wouldn’t enhance better.

High alcohol table wines just don’t age well. Maybe it would have been better if drunk on release.  In vino veritas.