All Burgundy is good – some are remarkable. The 37 year-old 1983 Joseph Drouhin Savignyu-Les-Beaune, cost under $20 back then, had 12.5% alcohol, and scored 18+ points on the 20-point Dionysian Scale.

Dried cherry pits, under smoke, earth and wet forest floor, filled the nose. You could taste red fruit on the tongue and after decanting a load of sediment, the wine continued to open for an hour.


Served with duck breast and root veggies, the wine quickly became the focal point of the meal. It was a mid-week dinner with nothing special about the day, but the wine made it a moment to remember.

Burgundy prices have gone through the roof because people have learned about how easy Pinot Noir is to drink. Age some Oregon examples of Pinot Noir and save a fortune. I was lucky to have tasted every great Burgundy back when they cost so little. I no longer can do that.  In Vino Veritas.