The 2013 Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling, from the Finger Lakes, N.Y., is a classic dry style New York Riesling … but better than most. Served simply with cheese and crackers, it was a perfect pre-dinner reception wine. It scored a 17+ on the Dionysian scale of 20.

The pale straw had hints of gold and the apple-autumn fruits lingered for a long after taste. It has refreshing acid and could easily have been mistaken for an expensive German Riesling. Costing about $20, it was well worth it.

This style of white wine can be aged for at least a decade. In vino veritas.

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Exactly what Dry Riesling should be.