For under $20, the 2016 La Pettegola Vermentino from Italy’s Banfi has a perfect 12.5% alcohol, mineral and citrus notes in the nose and ideal acidity for sea-food. A fine IGT classed white wine. It scored 16 points on the 20-point Dionysian Scale.

Served with carb-cake, this Vermentino makes you ask yourself why you don’t drink it more often. I will.

The is excellent when very young and can age a few years rounding it out. I like it both ways. The best ones come f rom north-central Italy and also from Sardinia. In Vino Veritas.