With 13.5% alcohol, the 2012 Casillero del Diablo Reserva Chardonnay from Concha y Toro in Chile scored 16+ points on the Dionysian scale of a possible 20. It cost about $12 and is made for current drinking, but its acidity says it can age for at least five to seven years.

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Named as the “Cellar of the Devil” to scare away the uneducated local workers in Chile, it has less wood than California examples, but more than Europe examples.

It was balanced with a medium body; had tropical fruit flavors with plenty of oak notes. It works for white meats, fish and pastas with cream sauces. It’s an excellent buy, and it makes a nice gift. In vino veritas.

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In place of a Pinot Noir with the salmon, this wine was big enough to marry with it.