The 38-year-old 1992 Conde de Valdemar Rioja Reserva scored 18 Dionysian points out of 20. It has 13% alcohol and cost, back then, about $10.

Cherry spice, smoke, American oak notes, and still holding it color, but with a blood-orange edge, the wine was a true vinous experience. One of my last bottles bought at Calvert Woodley in Washington, D.C.

Served with salmon and wild rice. It showed more aroma after half an hour in the glass.

My last bottle of this wine, sadly reported. I use to get a case every two or three years, but somehow stopped doing that. I will have to start again. After decanting, with little sediment, the wine was soft to taste, but flavors lingered very long between forkfuls of food. In Vino Veritas.