The 37 year-old red Burgundy had 12.8% ABV, cost under $22 then, and scored a fine 17 points on the 20-point Dionysian scale. The 1983 Joesph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet, an exception to the mostly Chardonnay-based wines of the commune, proved that Pinot Noir can also do well there.

It was still ruby with smoky cherry notes and hints of spices. The vintage was a big ripe one, producing loads of tannin and the bottle was filled with sediment, even leaving a crust on its side after decanting. Then, the silky Pinot Noir opened up.

It was served with a duck breast centered dish. Perfect. You can see the crusted sediment of tannins stuck to the inside of the bottle.

This is why you cellar special wines. It made our simple evening meal a special event. This wine peaks at 20 years and then holds a while. In Vino Veritas.