The 1988 Riserva Borgogno Barbaresco from a Barolo-based winery in Northern Italy and cost $15 back then. It has 13% alcohol, and scored 16+ Dionysian points on their scale of 20.

The wine, after decanting loads of sediment, was velvety with earthy mushroom and wet forest floor aromas. It demanded food.

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Pasta laced with grilled egg plant and lots of Pecorino Romano cheese married with 27 year old Italian Barbaresco.

Borgogno is based in the village of Barolo, south of Alba, in the Piedmont Region of Italy, but the grapes come from the neighboring village of Barbaresco, north of Alba and closer to Asti. Barbaresco wines should be drunk younger than Barolo, but this wine proved it has staying power. In vino veritas.

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