Scoring 17 Dionysian points from its scale of a possible 20, the 1990 Mommessin Sauvigny-les-Beaune, with 13% alcohol and costing about $15 back then, proved that good Burgundy should be aged.

Subtle cherry pit, some wood and spice rose from the red-brick colored wine. It was soft, medium weight and had a lingering aftertaste.

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Burgundy, both red and white, has to be bought by the producer’s name. Mommessin has a great reputation.

The 1990 vintage was round and had enough tannin to last a good while. The complexities reminded me of so many great 1976 Burgundies. As you sip older Burgundy, it kisses you back. Age some. The 2002’s are great now and will last until 2022. Seek out the best vintages to lay away.  In vino veritas.

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Most Pinot Noirs work with salmon, but the 26 year-old Burgundy even made the grilled potato chunks taste fuller. It was a wine to serve exclusively with members of the Dionysian Society.