With a high 14,3% ABV, and cost over $25, the 2009 Enriquez Reserve has lost its balance and shows heat on the finish, but still scoring an fine 15 on the 20-point Dionysian scale.

It seems to be designed as a party wine and not for as a friend of food. It was bottle 98 of just 1,200 produced in Sonoma County.

Served with frilled salmon, the over-ripe flavors really didn’t help enhance the meal.

This wine was fun to drink at four years old, but it’s in a style made for youthful new wine drinkers just off of fruit drinks and for the cocktail crowd. Now, at just 11 years, I expected so much more. Other examples of Enriquez wines have been very pleasurable. In Vino Veritas.