At 22 years old, the 1998 Tomasello Cabernet Sauvignon, Atlantic County, New Jersey, has 12% alcohol, cost back then under $15, and scores a fine 16 points on the Dionysian scale.

Cassis, oak, smoky black fruits all show in the wine. After decanting, it continued to open for another half an hour.

Served on a live radio broadcast and later on with steak sandwiches; the wine was enjoyable.

South Jersey is very similar to the Bordeaux area with ocean, soil and temperature days influence. Well made reds can age one or two decades and develop interesting complexities. Judge a wine on its quality and not where it comes from. In Vino Veritas.