With 14% alcohol, the 2010 La Spinetta Barbera D’Asti Ca’ Di Pian was full-bodied, big-flavored and fine with the pasta that had a very light tomato sauce. Costing about $15 and scoring 14+ points on the Dionysian scale of 20, it’s more the American style ( higher alcohol and fruity) than the traditional Italian style (lower alcohol with subtle flavors). It’s at least one degree of alcohol too much, but it is balanced with cherry, wood and some herbal spice.

It is a DOCG, the highest Italian grade of quality. That means “the name of origin is controlled and guaranteed” so it is definitely  Barbara grapes from the Asti area in Northern Italy. It doesn’t mean you’ll like it.

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Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines of New York.

The wine is in a very dark brown glass bottle telling you it can age 5 to 10 years even though jammy high alcohol wines don’t improve with cellaring. It is, however, worth a try. In vino veritas.